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How to Replace Brake Pads p.2

To collapse the caliper I use a c-clamp with the old pad as shown. If you collapse it slowly you most likely will not need to bleed the brakes.

To prep the parts for reassembly put the grease that comes with the pad on all moving parts of the brakes, but not on the brake surface. Lube the bolts, the back of the pads, and the ears of the pads. Now put the pad with the wear indicator on the backside and the one without the wear indicator on the front. The wear indicator is the small piece of metal that contacts the rotor just before the pad wears out. The collapsed caliper should slide back on over the rotor. Be careful and make sure the caliper bolt dust boots are on correctly. They tend to bend over as you slide the caliper on. Slide the caliper bolts on and torque them down to factory specifications. Put your wheel back on and install lug nuts. Once you put the car back on the ground torque the lug nuts to factory specs in a star pattern. Repeat for other side.

With the engine off depress your brake pedal a couple of times. It will go to the floor at least once. Now start the car and depress the pedal a couple of times. It will most likely go to the floor the first time. Now depress the pedal one more time. If the brake feels hard you most likely will not need to bleed the brakes. If it is still mushy you will need to bleed.

There are several methods to bleed brakes. My favorite method is to place a bottle of brake fluid by the brakes. Loosen the bleeder valve and run a clear tube to the bottle into the fluid. Now have someone pump the brakes until you see no bubbles in the hose. Now tighten the bleeder valve and repeat for the other 3 wheels.

Now test drive it and be easy on the brakes for the first 100 or so miles. The pads need to be broke in. If you hit the brakes hard without breaking them in you can glaze them over and ruin your new pads.

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